Kay LaurenceKay Laurence (Learning About Dogs) · 글
control(통제)을 유지하며 차에서 내려 안전한 장소로 이동해야 함.crate(이동장), 뒷문, 차, lead(리드줄) 등 어떤 상황에서의 release(풀어줌/해방)든, 반드시 반려견이 control(통제) 상태에 있을 때만 허용해야 함.practising points(연습 지점)가 됨.anxiety(불안)를 유발해서는 안 됨.crate(이동장) 안에서 세상의 광경과 냄새를 흡수하도록 기다리게 함.crate(이동장)는 반려견에게 안전하고 편안한 장소임.collar(목줄)를 통한 cue(신호)에 반응하는 법을 가르침.competent(능숙)해지면, 그때 주차장에서 crate(이동장) 밖으로 꺼내 주변을 탐색하게 함.sheepdog(양치기견)에게 중요한 고려 사항인데, 도로의 교통 흐름이 이들의 herding instincts(몰이 본능)를 자극할 수 있기 때문임.filing process(정보 저장 과정)는 매우 훌륭한 sleeping potion(수면제) 역할을 함.familiarisation(익숙해짐)의 정도를 이동 거리가 아닌 오직 시간으로만 측정해야 함.Familiarisation(친숙해지기)은 관찰하고, 평가하고, 정보를 저장하는 과정임.street furniture(거리의 가구/시설물)의 일부처럼 취급하도록 함.bobble along(흔들흔들 걸으며)하며 lollipop lady(횡단보도 교통안전 도우미)를 관찰할 수 있게 됨.schedule(일정)에 따라 나타남.overwhelm(압도)될 수 있으며, 매우 중요한 assessment skills(평가 기술)을 손상시킬 위험이 있음.fear inducing(두려움을 유발하는 것)으로 만들 수 있으며, 이는 개와 그 친구(보호자)를 위해 절대 원하지 않는 미래임.crate(켄넬) 안에 대기하기, 리드줄을 매기 위해 가만히 있기 등에 verbal cue(언어적 큐)를 줄지, 아니면 situation(상황) 자체를 cue(큐)로 활용할지 고려해야 함.verbal cue를 추가하는 것의 장점: 새로운 상황으로 그 의미를 transfer(전이)할 수 있음.verbal cue를 추가하는 것의 단점: 보호자가 개가 그것을 "안다"고 착각하여, 실수를 방지하기 위해 micro-manage(미세하게 관리/간섭)하거나 nag(잔소리)하게 될 수 있음.verbal label(언어적 라벨)을 붙일 수 있음.having a pee)는 가장 유용하고 필요한 verbal cue 중 하나임.crate 안으로 들어갈 때.crate door 경험을 통해 퍼피가 위치를 고수(hold position)하는 법을 배웠을 때 사용.self-chuffed(스스로 뿌듯해하는) 상태일 때, 미래의 praise(칭찬)를 위한 단어들을 많이 연결함.mouth clicks, whistles), 몸짓(clapping)을 퍼피가 느끼는 자연스러운 감정의 발생과 결합함으로써, 미래에 성공적인 이벤트를 mark(표시/강화)하기 위해 그 감정을 자극할 수 있음.wait behaviours)에 release word(해방어)를 추가할지, 아니면 situational cues(상황적 큐)를 사용할지 고려해야 함.releaser cue(해방 큐)로 보장할 수 있다면 단어가 필요 없을 수 있음.release word는 이러한 상황에서 안전을 위해 필요할 수 있음.verbal cue를 사용하여 의사소통을 향상시키는 것은 매우 유용함.verbal cue나 다른 어떤 cue든 한 번 이상 사용하지 말 것.cue를 뒷받침(back it up)할 준비가 되어 있지 않다면 절대 사용하지 말 것.cue를 반복하는 것은 상대(개)에게 보호자가 position of weakness(나약한 위치)에 있거나 lazy(게으른) 상태라는 것을 설명할 뿐임. (원문에서 두 번 언급됨).Every Dog Every Day 8. early days out and about Most of us wish to take our dog out-and-about with us; from the countryside walk to brunch at the local café or pub. We will plan to go on holiday, stay in hotels or visit friends, perhaps go to classes, a dog show or the local garden fête. To ensure these outings are as pleasant an experience for your dog as they are for you we need to begin to familiarise the youngster with these anticipated but unnatural environments. Travelling in the Car This can be achieve with ease if planned carefully and with forethought. Dogs that find car motion unpleasant will dribble excessively, dehydrate and sometimes vomit. This motion reaction is exaggerated in the rear of the car. Your first journey for the pup should be in the arms of the passenger in the front seat. By holding the 8 week old pup you absorb some of the motion and the front seats are the least likely active. A professional driver once used the expression - “you should always take the corner so carefully that the ice in the G&T does not hit the side of the glass.” Hah! Do not throw the puppy around especially if they have been dumped in a crate in the boot of the car - pea in a colander, almost guaranteed to induce sickness - try it yourself sometime. Once you can take regular short journeys with a sleeping pup in the arms of your passenger, then transfer the pup to crate with plenty of cushioning to absorb the motion. If the size is suitable place it on your front seat with seat belt around it so the pup can stay in visual contact. Over the growing months the crate can move backwards. If you wish to arrive at a destination without the screaming-for-release then do not make a habit of arriving and releasing the dog from the car within 60 seconds. Arrive, take out a book to read, go through your texts, go find a bathroom, fill up with petrol. Once the “we’ve stopped” and the dog escalates arousal in anticipation of the hunt, it is one of the hardest behaviours to change. The dog will learn to recognising the changing down of the gears or just the indicators, the scent, a speed bump, a series of pot holes; since these are all part of the sequence for turning into the car park. Plan to take your dog, if they travel well, on many journeys, where they do not leave the car but simply accompany you during all those errands. Of course be sensible about the weather some months are simply never going to be suitable taking the dog for rides. For all dogs it is a good policy to accustom them to confinement in the car for when you need to leave them. Begin with turning
the engine off and stay in the car. The engine switch off can be a cue for abandonment so avoid allowing the dog to study a new habit - be variable. Occasionally jump out to fill up, pay and off we go again, other times, just stop and admire the view. When you arrive Lay down good protocols for opening the car and releasing the dog. It may be convenient to turn up at the park and let the dog shoot. But one day you may need to pull over on the side of a busy motorway. On this occasion the dog will need to get out, with great control and be moved to a place of safety. Release from anything, be it the crate in the kitchen, out the back door, from the car, off the lead etc., should be only allowed after the dog is under control. Just as your mother put the dinner on the table and we learned to wait with good manners before we begin. These good manners are excellent practising points for future tricky situations. Become familiar with our world should never involve anxiety, it should be gradual, never extreme and the pup should always have the right to say “no thanks”. Just Watch the World If you are familiarising the pup with our weird world, then let them wait in the crate with the car door open whilst they absorb the sights and smells of this new world. It is a place of safety and comfort for them and they can do the business of learning without having to worry about the mechanics of walking at the same time. Nature has designed pups to learn things in order of safety. Nature has done this before and has excellent logic. The first bones that complete their growth are those in the feet and then the lower legs and then the upper legs. The last growth will be the head. It would not be practical to have a fully grown head on a puppy body, some falling over would occur more than is normal. When a pup sees something new they stop. New things need to be proven to be friend or foe, threat or opportunity. Until you know or recognise it for what it is, it would be stupid and dangerous to proceed any closer. My strategy is to arrive at the supermarket car park, open the back of the vehicle, park my butt on the bumper and let the pup watch the world for the first five visits. No outings, just watching. At home in a secure and familiar environment I will teach them how to respond to cues through the collar and when competent they will be lifted out of the crate at the car park to nosey around. I like car parks, not to many wild creatures, no loose dogs that consider my puppy fair game and people too purposefully busy to bother with cooing over my pup. We will purposeful
ly wander around, admire the white lines, empty parking space and sniff a few wheels of cars. Cars moving around will be slow, which is an important consideration with sheepdogs who can find road traffic releases their herding instincts. Every time the puppy comes to a halt - because they have spied something new, I pause with them and wait for their filing system to memorise the new information. This filing process makes an excellent sleeping potion. Begin with very short outings, no more than 5 minutes and slowly build up the duration. Do not try to measure their familiarisation by distance, only by time. The busier environments will take much longer to process. If you have a time schedule and need to be somewhere, then carry the pup. Familiarisation is about observing, assessing and filing away. It does not require interaction. Your pup can benefit from seeing many different shapes of dogs, and people, but they do not need to greet or be physically touched by them. If these people in this environment are not part of their future then treat them as if they were part of the street furniture. As their assessing skills increase you will notice they will be able to bobble along and watch the lollipop lady. This will arrive on their own schedule, when they are ready, not when you wish for it. If you push them too fast in this process you can overwhelm the puppy and risk damaging the critically important assessment skills. This may lead to everything being fear inducing which is not a future that I would wish for any dog or their friend. Label the Day You may need to consider whether the pup is given a verbal cue to wait at doors, in the crate for dinner, to stay still for the lead to be put on, or use the situation as the cue. The benefit to adding a verbal cue to these established situations is that you can transfer it to a new situation. The disadvantage is that you think the dog “knows” it and use it to micro-manage (nag) to prevent error. You can attach a verbal label to every action your puppy does. Having a pee is one of the most useful verbal cues you will ever add and need. Choose the words carefully: “be quick” or “hurry -up” is advised for the more public events. I add words for: “outside” when they are going out of the door from the house to garden, usually following me or the other dogs “inside” opposite way around “in your bed” going into the crate when following a tossed treat “wait there” on every occasion that it predictably occurs “wait there” when the crate door experience has taught the pup to hold position I also pair lots of words of fu
ture praise when the pup is naturally self-chuffed. They have secured a toy and travel towards me for some positive stroking - lovely jubbly, what a hero, clever, clever boy-pup. By adding these words, sounds (mouth clicks, whistles), and gestures (clapping) to the natural occurrence of that emotion, I can stimulate that emotion in the future to mark successful events. This is just a simple way to teach the dog our language. You can also think about whether you wish to add a release word to the wait behaviours or use the situational cues. Does the dog come out of the car when you step back or when you say “let’s go”? If you can be guaranteed to only ever step back as the releaser cue, then a word may not be necessary, but in reality you may need to step back for a whole host of reasons that do not signal the dog to come out of the car - so the release word may be a safety need in these conditions. Using verbal cues can be very useful to improve communication provided you never make an assumption that “they know it”. They may know it, but they may also forget it, or choose to do something else at that time. Do not use a verbal cue or any other cue more than once and never unless you are in a position to back it up. Do not send the dog “in your bed” as you walk out of the room with your dinner on a tray. Do not ask the dog to go out when you are not prepared to get up off the sofa and walk out with the dog. Repeating a cue just explains to the recipient that you are in a position of weakness or being lazy. Repeating a cue just explains to the recipient that you are in a position of weakness or being lazy. Be a Parent Not a Pimp When you begin to introduce your pup to social situations protect them from well-meaning and self-indulgent people. Try to read your pup’s level of confidence, if they do not wish to be touched and do not respond by stepping towards the person then on their behalf fend off the intention. Quite frankly, some people approach with really bad hand language, stink of cigarette smoke and have every intention of mussing the pup’s head. Imagine if strangers did that to you or your child? Yuck. It is the person’s agenda to fondle your puppy, it is rarely of any benefit to your puppy and you may need to practise some serious blocking to stop the urge. Be ready for them to take offence, you can try the polite “he’s in training, thank you”, but remember your contract is with this puppy for the next 15 years, not the passing stranger, who will most definitely consider you rude and ungenerous. No one has the right to touch your puppy, just as no
one has the right to touch or fondle you or your child. Not good behaviour. At the other end of the spectrum your puppy may be extremely eager to greet all humans. This is not a good trait. People will be sucked into the cuteness and provide all the interaction the puppy desires. But how will you explain to the 11 month old muddy dog-thug that people no longer wish to touch him? What is going to happen when you are out for a walk with the dog off lead - do you want them to rush up to all people? Middle ground is best choice, strangers should remain strange and of no interest, friends and acquaintances when you invite interaction and family free to interact as is appropriate. Always consider where the behaviour will be in 2 year’s time and do not allow social custom and expectation to require punishment in the future because indulgence was not under control when they were young - indulgence for both people and the pup. Just because lots of people do it does not make it right. NO ONE has the right to touch your puppy EVERY DOG EVERY DAY 10 Chapters in this book Every Dog Every Day Introduction
arisation should ensure that a puppy has the time to assess, observe, and become familiar with, the weird and wonderful life that will be their future. Read More 7. Lifestyle At Home We breed a dog that lives and breathes to share their lives with people. Be nearby and visit often. Read More 6. Teach and Train They do not arrive knowing how to behave or live in our society, except as dogs. They will need help to learn how to live alongside us without conflict. This is our responsibility. Read More 5. Relationship and Connection Connection is about being in tune with each other. Dog is not the enemy. Read More 4. But it is a Puppy Puppies are designed to bring on a shot of pleasure-chemicals that override common sense and risk analysis in people. We behave without responsibility. Read More 3. Dogs Can Only Behave Like Dogs Be alert, and probably bark when something suspicious occurs. Read More 2. Ethics Take heed of your comfort bell. If the advice or a situation makes your comfort bell start to ring with alarm then walk away. Your bell should be listened to and although it may not ring loudly in the first instance, do not ignore it. Read More