신규 출시! 마이클 엘리스 방위 클래스 파트 2 | 바이트 워크(Bite Work) 배우기

of talking about what you do in your work with your customers, this is what you need. This is not something that you're going to sit down and watch on a weekend afternoon. This is the type of thing you're going to study and study and come back to and study. And the beauty of these online courses that Leerberg has produced is how easy it is to review material. And you really need to have that when you're talking about 753 short videos. It needs to be well organized and it needs to be in a program which is like what we have here that makes it so simple to go back and find the part that you want to review and watch it again. And that's one of the reasons I broke this up into 750 some videos because I learned a long time ago, 30 years ago, 40 years ago, I don't know, a long time ago that even when we started producing DVDs, how you would go into the middle of a four or a five hour DVD just to find three minutes of something you want to review, it'll drive you crazy going forward, backward, forward, backward with your remote trying to find something to review. That doesn't happen in our online courses. So all I can say here is if you're into protection training, it doesn't matter if it's one of the biting dog sports, it doesn't matter if you're talking about being a professional law enforcement instructor and you really want to take your game to a much higher level, this is where you start and set yourself up to watch it over a long period of time. Once you start watching it, you're going to get addicted to it. It's kind of like you go down the rabbit hole on these videos and you think, geez, that was really interesting or boy, that's good. What's next? That's what you'll find yourself doing if you get this course. And like I said, we started with 50 hours of video. We ended up with 43 hours of edited video. We logged how long it took us to edit those 50 hours of videos. And it's, I don't have it here with me, but it's well over 200 hours just of editing. If you're on the, this is not a cheap course to buy and we understand that. But as time goes on, I'm going to take the occasional video out of this 700 and some videos and I'm going to put it on YouTube so people can get the feel or the essence of the quality of material that we're putting in this course. With this said, I'd like to thank Michael for allowing us to do this and to work with him on this project. Really nice, nice job all you guys. I think you guys all made steps, definitely big progress over the course of the week. Again,

I'll just kind of quickly review for one last time our fundamental stuff, the stuff you should concentrate on. Things that you guys can practice for sure without having to have trained dogs is a lot of our online bite stuff, right? So anytime you find a dog that you guys want to play, even tug, right? So even if you have a dog that's not biting a sleeve or a wedge or a leg sleeve, the dog that'll bite a tug, you can practice all those mechanics that we talked about with somebody posting the dog for you or back tying the dog. More flexible if somebody posts the dog, but you have somebody hold the dog on a harness. You take a toy, even, even not in a smell, but hey, you take a tug and you just treat it the same way we're treating a sleeve. You get up front, find the perimeter, step up, hold the tug, hold it out, miss, hold it out, miss, boom. All right, same exact principle, so you guys can all do that. Strike, remember when the dog bites, don't want the thing to jump forward in their mouth, set their grip. Remember when you're trying to encourage good gripping behavior, relax and pulse like prey trying to get away, little jumps, and you can do that online stuff. And you can get a bite wedge too and do that same stuff as the dog progresses from tug to bite wedge, leg sleeve, arm sleeve, it's really all the same mechanics. What we saw is that when we start using schutzen style equipment, of course, there's another layer of difficulty, which is being aware of where the bite bar is, right? So when you have bite bar sleeves, those wedge shaped sleeves, not only do you have to keep your footwork right and absorb the dog and go with the dog and keep your target steady, but you also need to orient the bite bar. So you need to be able to twist your wrist inside there so you point the bite bar where you want it to be. So until you get comfortable with that, just use a soft sleeve. So you saw with that soft sleeve a variety of different spots where the dog wound up hitting, right? So if that had been a hard sleeve, of course, those would have been bad bites, right? The dog could have hit at the end of the sleeve, on the elbow, or top, or underneath, and those things, that's much harder on the dog. So practice with soft stuff first, of course, right? So you can do all the online stuff. Mechanics, catching a dog with a toy, catching a dog with a wedge, catching a dog with a sleeve, catching a dog on your shoulder, leg, everything's exactly the same, right? Front, back, it's all the same. Dog comes, I want the dog to bite me on my right leg. When the dog commits, I shift my weight,

so now my weight's over this foot, no weight on this foot, put, catch, we've got it, right? Same the other way. Gonna bite me in the shoulder, same way. Shift the weight, dog hits it, I step, I go with the dog. Back of the shoulder, other side, same thing. Back of the leg, same thing, dog's coming, shift, bite, dog's coming, shift, bite, right? So we did each of those different things. It's going to be the same basic stuff. Goal, always keep your target steady until you see the dog committed to the target and then shift your weight and move your body out from behind the target. So continue to practice those skills, right? We talked about introducing stressors in a variety of ways. Make sure that when you're introducing a stressor, initially if you're introducing a stressor while the dog's initially, all stressors introduced with the dog off the bite. So pick up things, make noise, show threat while the dog's not biting, so the dog doesn't associate it with biting. If the dog is good with them and you're starting to introduce them on the bite, then make sure that there's life and energy in the part of your body that the dog is biting while you threaten, right? If I lift a stick above the dog's head and the dog's on my leg, I want to make sure there's energy in my leg in response. And if the dog fights back, then I want the stressor to stop and I want to make sure I'm responding to that in some fashion, right? So our job as training decoys is definitely respond to what the dog does, right? The dog shakes, digs in, pulls, whatever it is, that shows us that the dog is responding. We talked a little bit about genetic biting styles, right? So how the dog wants to fight against us. That's partially genetic and partially trained, but a dog can have a propensity to do a certain thing. So if I have a dog when they're comfortable that's pushing and they're pulling now, warning sign to you, they're uncomfortable, right? And if I have a dog that's pushing and I want it to pull, then frequently I'm fighting against something that's natural for that dog. And you got to be careful when you do that, right? So we talked about the genetic biting styles and kind of trying playing to the dog's strength and then changes in that biting style being warning signs for us, right? If I'm stressing the dog or showing the dog some new picture and the dog starts biting in a way they weren't biting before, then we should think we may be creating a problem. The dog may not be comfortable with that stuff. Practice a lot, you know, get in front of as many dogs as you can is

a big part of it, right? So at this stage you're just gonna, the only thing, I think you guys all have made big improvements over the week and you're getting much more relaxed. The other thing I could say, I'll say it again and again, and I said it all week and I'll say it, if you could hear one voice in the back of your head the whole time, just say relax, right? Stay loose. The looser you are, the better off it is, you know? So if the dog knocks you down or anything, the more relaxed you are, the more you go with it, the less damage will happen to you and the less damage will happen to the dog, right? So make sure you stay relaxed. That relaxation, the tension is what gets us in trouble. When we tense, we move parts of our body we don't want to and when we're tense, we don't absorb well when dogs run into us on the sleeve, on the legs, anything, right? Basic stance for everything is your feet about shoulder width apart, bend your knees a little bit, get over the balls of your feet so you can go either direction. Don't get flat footed, don't get too upright, get off balance when you get upright. We talked about posting techniques, handling techniques from the handler, right? We talked about the sort of belay technique where you sit on the line, talk about wrapping the line around your hand and bracing it on your hip. Low center of gravity there, also our friend, you sink yourself down into the ground, your weights on your rear foot, like that to hold the dog. We talked about keeping the flow between bites, so if you're carrying, doing holding and carrying work with the dog, you move with the dog as you go around, you move up to the dog, you keep the dog oriented forward towards the helper, the things that help the session continue to flow forward, right? So the dog doesn't get on the sleeve and spin around backwards and get tangled in line and all those sorts of things. We talked a bit about holding and carrying and why we do some of that stuff with some dogs and not with others, right? There are dogs that we're going to encourage to hold and carry and most of this is about balance in the dog's work, a balance between man orientation and equipment fixation. Possessive dogs that are very high threshold, we tend to have them carry less and dogs that need some equipment satisfaction, we tend to have them carry more, hold more, keep that in balance, right? We want the dog to be able to focus on the guy, depending on the discipline we're doing, but also enjoy the equipment enough so that they bite it well.

And then we talked a little bit briefly about different sport specific biting styles, like some dogs will, there's a preferred bite style in Schutzen, there's a preferred bite style in Belgian ring, there's not a preferred bite style really in French ring, the dog just bites and holds on, but we talked a little bit about those. And so if you were specializing in any of those sports, we would want to emphasize a bite that's obviously productive for that sport. So if I have a Belgian ring dog, I don't want that dog pulling back, so I'm going to do a lot of things to let the dog, encourage the dog to drive in. We saw lots of that this week, right? So we have several dogs here that like to drive in, so we were encouraging that behavior in them because that's what makes them feel comfortable, and they'd push in, you'd let them push you back and you'd respond in that way, right? And remember the the pulsy work thing, right? So the making the equipment or the body part that the dog's biting jump in there in the dog's mouth, right? So I relax my leg, and I jerk it back. I relax my leg, I jerk it back. I relax my arm, boom, boom. I relax my shoulder, boom, boom. And I put energy back into it. Okay? What's up here? What's up here? What's up here?